ChicJewelryLive.com Diamond Information
Diamonds are the hardest of all substances on this earth. They are incredibly
resistant to heat and scratching and can only be polished or scratched by another
diamond, but an extremely hard blow to the girdle can cause a chip. By having
your diamond placed in a protective setting your diamond can stay intact for
a lifetime. Their sparkle, if cared for well, will remain undiminished for
hundreds and hundreds of years.
Diamond Carat
A Diamonds weight is expressed in carats. In order to get the
exact carat weight the diamond must be loose. One carat is divided into 100
points so that a diamond of 100 points is described as one carat in size and
is listed as 1.00 carat.
Diamond Color
Color choices for a diamond are limitless, but colorless diamonds
are the most valuable. Colorless diamonds have a high value because of rarity
and they are the most brilliant of the stone choices. A little color can diminish
a stone's brilliance.
Cut Diamond Cut
Diamond cut is related to the proportion of the diamond. Cut
more than any other quality gives the diamond its sparkle. A diamond gets its
brilliance from polishing the facets which allows the maximum amount of light
to be reflected.
Diamond Clarity
A diamond with the fewest inclusions is very rare and highly
valued. The small inclusions are what makes each diamond unique. Clarity is
determined by the number, size, and location of the inclusions with most being
invisible to the naked eye.
Round Shape Diamonds
A round diamond is the most popular shape for a diamond
and accounts for the majority of diamonds sold today.
Oval Shape Diamonds
An oval diamond has is an elongated version of the round
shape which gives an illusion of length to the hand.
Marquis Shape Diamonds
A marquise diamond has an elongated shape with pointed
ends.
Princess Shape Diamonds
A princess diamond is either square or rectangular
in shape and brilliantly cut.
Asscher Shape Diamonds
The Asscher shape diamond was developed in 1902 by
the Asscher brothers of Holland. It is a steped square cut with cropped corners.
Emerald Shape Diamonds
An emerald cut diamond is a rectangular shape with
cut corners, broad flat planes, and a step cut.
How to Buy a Diamond
There are 4 C’s to always keep in mind when purchasing a diamond:
CARAT – The size and weight of a diamond is always classified by carats and points. One hundred points make up one carat. A diamond that weighs less then one hundred points is sometimes identified in point size, for example a .55 carat diamond can also be titled as a 55 point diamond. When diamonds are mined, larger stones are found a lot less frequently then smaller stones making larger diamonds more valuable. Usually, the pricing of diamonds goes up with the carat size.
CLARITY – The greater a diamond’s clarity, the greater its brilliance, sparkle, and value. Diamonds that have perfect clarity are the most sought after and therefore are the most expensive. Most diamonds have inclusions, which are scratches, trace minerals, or any other tiny flaw that takes away from the natural beauty of a diamond. These so called birthmarks resemble tiny clouds, crystals, and/or feathers. Diamonds that are classified as flawless show no inclusions, these are rare and sought after because of their beauty. Diamonds with extremely tiny inclusions follow flawless diamonds in quality, because the larger and the more visible the inclusions the lower the quality and rarity forcing the value of that diamond to go down. The number, type, color, position, and size of surface and internal inclusions affect the value of the diamond. The reason for this being that large inclusions can disrupt the path of light as it travels through the stone, taking away from its sparkle and value. Rating are marked as FL for flawless, IF for internally flawless, VVS1 and VVS2 for very very slightly included, SI1 and SI2 slightly included.
CUT – The cut of a diamond, or the roundness, depth, width, and uniformity of the facets, determine a diamond’s brilliance. The width and depth have the greatest effect on how light travels through and exits a diamond in the form of brilliance. In a diamond that has been cut too shallow light is lost through the sides causing the diamond to lose its brilliance. In a diamond that is cut too deep light will escape through the bottom causing the diamond to appear dark and dull. The proportions of a diamond, specifically the depth compared to the diameter, and the diameter of the table compared to the diameter of the diamond, determine how light will reflect and refract within a diamond. While nature establishes the color, clarity, and carat weight of a diamond a skilled artisan is necessary to unveil a diamond’s inner beauty. When a diamond is cut well, light reflects from one mirror like facet to another and radiates through the top of the diamond.
COLOR – Diamonds are graded by color. Acting as a prism a diamond can divide light into a spectrum of colors and reflect this light as colorful flashes called fire. A true colorless stone is very rare and sought after for their quality. The less color in a diamond, the more colorful the fire, the better the color grade. Grading goes by the letters in the alphabet, D being the greatest color quality and Z being the lowest color quality.
Definitions you should know: Girdle: The narrow band around the widest part of a diamond. Diameter: The width of the diamond measured through the girdle. Table: The largest facet of a gemstone. Crown: The top portion of a diamond extending from the girdle to the table.
Care of Diamonds
Even though diamonds last forever, they must be cleaned periodically to ensure their brilliance. A solution of one part ammonia and six parts water can be used to clean diamond jewelry. It is also a good idea to have your diamonds checked once a year by a professional to ensure the setting is secure.
Make a Diamond Look Larger Than its True Carat Weight
Engagement Ring Tips
When you shop for an engagement ring or other diamond jewelry you'll find there are many ways to make a diamond appear larger than it actually is. The diamond's cut, shape, and setting all have an impact on its apparent size.
Put these five techniques to work for you if you want to buy a diamond engagement ring that looks larger than its true carat weight.
1. Consider Fancy Diamond Shapes
Fancy shaped diamonds usually look larger
than round diamonds of equal weight, especially diamonds with elongated shapes,
such as marquise, oval and pear shaped diamonds.
2. Choose a Pavé Setting
A pavé setting looks like a continuous
surface of diamonds, but is actually made up of small diamonds set side by
side into little holes, their surfaces nearly level with the setting. Tiny
beads are crafted from the surrounding metal to hold the diamonds in place.
It's difficult to distinguish individual stones, so a pavé setting makes you think the jewelry has more--and larger--diamonds than it truly does. Keep in mind that diamond rings with intricate pavé settings can be expensive, so sometimes it's less costly to buy a larger diamond.
3. Consider an Illusion Setting
The diamond in an illusion setting is mounted
to a mirror-like plate before being set into the band, making it look larger,
with more brilliance.
There's a downside to the illusion setting-it's more difficult to repair.
4. Choose an Engagement Ring with Side Stones
Small diamonds set into the band
on either side of a center stone won't necessarily make the focal diamond look
larger, but can give an engagement ring more overall pizzazz.
5. Select a Bezel Set Diamond
Choose a diamond in a bezel setting, where a
rim totally encircles the stone. White gold or platinum will blend with and
enhance a white diamond, making it appear larger. A yellow gold bezel setting
can throw a yellowish tint back onto the diamond.
Shallow cut diamonds look larger, but with a penalty.
You might be tempted to buy an engagement ring set with diamonds that are cut shallow--not as deep as they ideally should be. Shallow cut diamonds do appear larger than the same size stones with a more proportional cut, but what you gain in size you lose in brilliance. Light traveling through a shallow cut tends to go out the back instead of bouncing off of the sides of the stone and back into your vision.
Fancy Color Diamond Terminology
What colors do fancy color diamonds exist in?
Natural colored diamonds come in all shades, hues and colors of the rainbow, with some of the most popular colors being shades and combinations of pink, blue, brown, yellow, orange, green and red. They are generally smaller than other diamonds and are used primarily in fashion jewelry. Yellow is the most commonly-occurring fancy color, while red, blue and green diamonds are extremely rare.
How can we interpret color names for fancy color diamonds?
The predominant hue is always expressed as a noun, such as "pink." Any secondary colors will precede the primary hue and are usually expressed with an "ish" at the end, such as purplish pink. This means that the primary hue is pink with some hints of purple throughout.
If the grade is stated as two nouns - like "brown pink," it means that the two colors are virtually even throughout the stone.
A Fancy Color Diamond Adds Pizzazz to Your Jewelry
As buyers, we spend a lot of time evaluating a diamond's lack of color. It's a desirable trait that drives demand–and diamond prices–upwards. But on the other end of the spectrum is another group of diamonds, ones we want to be colorful. These fancy color diamonds exist in a rainbow of vivid hues – yellows, reds, pinks, blues, greens, purples, and shades in-between.
Natural fancy color diamonds get their coloring in different ways:
From different trace elements present in the stones, such as nitrogen, which produces a yellow diamond.
From exposure to radiation during the diamond's creation. Green diamonds are an example of gems affected by radiation.
Inclusions, regarded as undesirable in a colorless stone, often contribute unique tones and interesting flashes of color in a fancy color diamond.
Making the Color More Intense
Fancy color diamonds are more popular than ever, so gemologists have developed ways to create affordable versions by treating less desirable diamonds.
Irradiation, followed by a high heat treatment, turns brownish and yellow diamonds into colorful show-stoppers, and at a price you can afford.
Treatments make it possible for more of us to own these vivid diamonds, because most natural colored diamonds are rare and expensive. You should assume that any affordable fancy color diamond has been treated in some way. If you question a stone's origins, ask for a lab certificate to verify its authenticity.
Synthetic Diamonds are Another Option
Synthetic colored diamonds are another option. They're real diamonds, but they are created in a lab. Synthetics make owning a fancy color diamond a reality for those of us who couldn't afford a natural stone.
Diamond Color Treatments
Improving Diamond Color
A diamond's color—or lack of color—is one of the components that affects its value. Diamonds with the least amount of color, graded D, E, and F, are rare and command higher prices than diamonds with yellow or brownish tones.
On the other end of the spectrum, vivid, fancy color diamonds are even more unique, with price tags to reflect their rarity. So it's no wonder that the jewelry industry has developed methods to turn ho-hum diamonds into the show-stoppers that the public demands.
Turning yellow and brownish diamonds into gemstones with more visual appeal isn't a new idea, but some of the technology used to accomplish it is. Like other diamond treatments, only some of the methods used to enhance the stones are permanent.
Coatings & Other Color Tricks
Coatings applied to change a diamond's color are not permanent and are nearly always done to deceive the buyer.
Diamonds are sometimes coated with a substance that masks yellowish tints. Though it is applied with heat, the coating will eventually rub off with normal wear and cleaning.
Sometimes dots or larger areas of purple or blue ink are painted on the diamond to help counteract a yellowish color. The dots are usually obscured by the diamond's setting, so they are difficult to see in a mounted stone. The coating can usually be removed with water or cleaning solutions.
Creating Colorful Diamonds
Irradiation, followed by a high heat treatment, can turn brown and yellow diamonds into fancy colored diamonds--greens, vivid yellows, blues, purples, reds and other colors. The color is usually permanent, but could possibly change if high heat is used during setting repairs.
Natural fancy colored diamonds are expensive and out of the reach of most buyers. A certificate from a respected grading lab should accompany all fancy colored diamonds that are marketed as natural.
Question the ethics of anyone who attempts to sell you a natural fancy colored diamond for a bargain price.
Treatment-produced fancy colors are affordable, and allow more of us to own a brightly colored diamond. They should not be considered an investment. Buy one because you love it, not because you think you can sell it for a profit later.
Ask the jeweler for care instructions when you buy an irradiated fancy color diamond.
High Pressure High Temperature Treatment (HPHT)
HPHT was first used to turn yellowish diamonds into fancy colored diamonds, but now it is also used to transform some unpopular brownish diamonds into more expensive colorless diamonds.
Some companies claim HPHT isn't a treatment at all, calling it a technique that finishes the job nature started. That attitude, and the fact that the process is difficult to detect, has made HPHT a controversial topic.
General Electric is producing colorless diamonds, called Bellataire, from type IIa diamonds that are nitrogen-free. The company has applied for a patent on the process used to transform the stones. On their Bellataire Web site, GE states:
"BELLATAIRE Diamonds are extremely rare Type IIa diamonds that were originally
crystallized without color and were destined to become extraordinary gems.
During their journey to the surface of the Earth through volcanic pipes, though,
these crystals were subjected to intense heat, tremendous pressure, and explosive
turbulence. These conditions caused some molecular misalignment in these crystals,
resulting in a brownish color and internal stress."
GE's position is that the process they use restores diamonds to their colorless
state.
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grading reports now indicate when HTPT treatments are detected by stating "HPHT Annealed" or "Artificially Irradiated" in the Origins portion of a report.
Only diamonds that are laser-inscribed with the words "HPHT PROCESSED," "IRRADIATED," or a specific registered name are graded.
GE uses a registration number and the letters "GE POL" to inscribe their diamonds.
There have been instances where inscribed lettering has been removed before
a diamond was submitted for grading.
HPHT will continue to be a controversial topic, with grading labs trying to
perfect ways to detect the always-improving process so that consumers can receive
full disclosure about the diamonds they purchase.
Should you purchase an HPHT diamond? You're the only one who can make that decision. The diamonds are definitely gorgeous, but choosing between altered and natural is a personal decision.
A few facts about HPHT Diamonds:
HPHT is permanent.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that HPHT be disclosed.
Most HPHT diamonds weigh over 1/2 carat.
HPHT diamonds should cost less than similar natural diamonds.
Clarity Enhanced Diamonds
Diamond clarity is an important diamond characteristic you'll hear about when you shop for an engagement ring or other diamond jewelry, but clarity isn't always natural--it can be altered by mechanical treatments - and clarity enhanced diamonds may be among the gemstones offered to you.
The terms used to describe diamond clarity focus on the absence or presence of inclusions inside or blemishes on the surface of the diamond. A perfect natural diamond with perfect clarity--clearness--is very rare, but many flaws that exist in jewelry grade diamonds cannot be seen without looking at them through a microscope or jeweler's magnifying loupe.
Inclusions
Imperfections inside a diamond, such as tiny spots of white, black, or other colors; large or small cracks; colored and uncolored crystals.
Blemishes
Flaws on a diamond's exterior surface, such as nicks and scratches.
Naturals, leftovers of the rough, uncut and unpolished surface of a diamond.
Clarity Enhancing Treatments
Laser Drilling
A tiny laser beam is used to drill into the diamond, tunneling-in to remove inclusions. Some inclusions are dissolved by chemical solutions that are placed in the tunnels.
Signs of Laser Drilling
Laser drilling typically leaves lines that resemble tiny jet trails, visible under side-view magnification. You'll see a tiny white dot when viewing the trails from the top of the diamond.
A newer type of laser enhancement creates cracks around inclusions near a diamond's surface. The imperfection is removed, and the marks left behind look more like natural flaws than laser trails.
Laser drilling removes inclusions permanently and does not alter the strength of a diamond. Normal cleaning and the heat produced during setting repairs won't change the appearance of the stone.
Laser drilled areas that are filled-in with a clear substance are more difficult to detect, but the filler should not be considered permanent.
Fracture Filling
Fracture filling is a treatment used to fill-in tiny cracks with a clear, glasslike substance. The cracks don't disappear, but the film creates an optical illusion that makes them invisible to the naked eye.
Fracture filling is not a permanent treatment. Heat from repairs, cleaning, and sunlight can erode the filler or darken its color.
Signs of Fracture Filling
Some signs of fracture filling can be seen using a 10X jeweler's loupe and others require a microscope.
With magnification, you might see flashes of color where cracks have been filled. The flashes aren't like the typical brilliant colors you see when rotating a stone. Instead, they follow the lines and shapes of the filled cracks.
Trapped air bubbles are a sign of fracture filling, either singly or in groups that create a cloudy appearance.
Unfilled cracks in diamonds can also produce color flashes. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) advises that unfilled cracks are easiest to detect when looking at them from a perpendicular angle, while filled breaks are more obvious when looking at them from a parallel perspective.
If you're buying a diamond engagement ring or other diamond jewelry that will be worn continuously, a fracture filled stone may not be the best choice, since the treatment is not permanent.
The Term "Enhanced"
Be wary if someone insinuates that the word enhanced is a positive gemstone
feature. It does sound more desirable than the term treated, but it means the
same thing. Find out which treatments were used and how those treatments affect
the value of the diamond, its long-term appearance, and the care you should
give it.
Treatments allow us to own a diamond that appears to be of a higher quality
than it truly is, and there's nothing wrong with buying a treated diamond if
those treatments are disclosed and you pay an appropriate price for the stone.
Jeweler Disclosure
Knowledgeable, reputable jewelers always disclose that treatments were made to the diamonds they offer for sale, but let's face it, not everyone is knowledgeable or reputable. The solution is to arm yourself with as much information as you can before you shop for diamonds. You won't become an expert overnight, but you will have a better understanding of what you're looking at and you'll know which questions you should ask before you make an important purchase.
Diamond Laser Inscription
Romantic yes, but with practical uses
The trendiest romantics are proving their love by writing it in stone – on a diamond, that is.
Now lovers can personalize diamond jewelry by having a romantic or secret message engraved on the gem's girdle (outside edge). This “cutting edge” trend is called “diamond laser inscription.”
Diamond laser inscription not only provides the ultimate personal touch, but also an easy way to identify a diamond. The service is available through local jewelers and is performed by the Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) Gem Trade Laboratory. GIA, an independent nonprofit organization based in Carlsbad, Calif., is recognized as the world's foremost authority in gemology.
A micro-laser beam is used to etch a microscopic inscription on the girdle of any diamond weighing one-quarter carat or more.
Romantic messages like “Forever Yours,” “Till the Twelfth of Never” and “Always and Forever” are examples of commonly inscribed messages. Poetry, symbols, names and special dates are also popular. Since the message can be read only under magnification, customers can keep it to themselves or choose to share it with others.
In addition to personalization, inscription can provide peace of mind when making a diamond purchase. For example, diamonds graded by GIA Gem Trade Laboratory can have its unique Diamond Grading Report number inscribed on it for instant verification.
“Demand for diamond inscription has been phenomenal and there are no signs of it slowing down,” said Thomas C. Yonelunas, chief executive officer of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory. “We will inscribe anything within reason – and taste. Diamond laser inscription has truly caught the public's imagination.”
The price of inscription is based on the weight of the diamond and the length
of the inscription. A typical inscription “length” is up to 15
letters or spaces. For further information, contact your professional jeweler.
This article was originally published by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Caring For Your Diamond
For all the beauty and complexity of well-cut diamonds, they are the simplest of gemstones in the chemical sense - pure carbon, the same as the graphite in a pencil. Diamonds are formed under intense heat and pressure deep within the earth and are forced to the surface by geological events. They are harder than any other material on earth and can be cut only by other diamonds. Their hardness and other special qualities - such as how they refract light - allow them to be cut into the amazing gems we know today.
Even though diamonds are very durable, they require special care to keep them looking their best. We recommend that you have your diamonds cleaned professionally on a regular basis. You can also use a mild ammonia and water solution with a soft-bristled, non-metallic brush to gently scrub away dirt buildup around the prongs. However, avoid ultrasonic cleaners if your stone has a serious crack or inclusion. The vibrations of ultrasonic cleaners can enlarge such flaws.
When you have your jewelry cleaned, ask the jeweler to check the settings to be sure all stones are secure. If a stone is loose, have it repaired immediately. Also avoid setting diamonds in very soft metals like 24K gold, which bends easily.
Store your diamonds separately from other jewelry. Diamonds can scratch other gemstones, especially pearls, as well as other diamonds.
When wearing your diamond it is very important that you are mindful of its care. Though diamonds are very durable, a hard blow could chip the stone. We recommend that you avoid wearing your diamond while doing housework, yard work, or any other rough work. Also, avoid allowing your diamond to come into contact with bleach (and other harsh cleansers), or hairspray, which can cause buildup that dulls the surface of the diamond. If you notice that one of the stones in your setting is loose, discontinue wearing it, and take it to a professional jeweler for repair.
Storing Your Diamond
When not wearing your diamond, we recommend that you store it in a fabric-lined case with dividers to separate your various pieces of jewelry, or a soft cloth pouch. This will help prevent your diamonds from scratching each other or your other pieces of jewelry.
Cleaning Your Diamond
Over time a film may develop over your jewelry. The oils in your skin, the
beauty products you use, even household cleaners, can cause this buildup.
By periodically cleaning your jewelry, you will be able to maximize it's
brilliance and its beauty.
We suggest a cleaning solution of one part ammonia to six parts water. Gently scrub the diamond and its setting with a soft-bristle brush, taking care not to scratch the metal of the setting. This periodic cleaning should greatly increase the brilliance of your diamond. However, we do recommend that you take your diamond into a professional jeweler once a year to have it cleaned and to have the security of its setting inspected.